Welcome to Istanbul!
It is definitely one of the greatest capitals of the world. The mix of new and historical, European and Asian, Byzantine and Ottoman, luxury and decadent, makes it pretty unique. Yes, Istanbul is a urban chaos - like many other capitals. Still, if you do not like it, surely you were too busy to do proper research beforehand, as Istanbul is meant to be praised and loved. Maybe we can help you with that.
Ideally, you need 5 full days in Istanbul to get the most of what the city offers. As all posts in this blog, this suggested guide by no means is meant to be exhaustive or super informative. It is merely a starting / validating point for travellers who are seeking to have a special experience aligning touristic attractions with hidden gems - most of them suggested by a dear Turkish friend of mine (a true insider whose taste I deeply trust). Take notes!
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| Hagia Sophia seen from the Ciragan Palace |
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| Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet |
Sightseeing
In Sultanahmet (the gorgeous historical centre), you should visit Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, the Topkapi Palace (including the harem), the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar (buy tea and Turkish Delights!), the Archaeological Museum and its beautiful gardens, the Suleymaniye Mosque and the New Mosque (one of the most beautiful mosques, still not considered a top attraction). You need at least two full days to see all that.
Close to the old centre, visit the Galata Tower (great views to the Golden Horn and the old centre) and walk around Beyoglu. You may watch the sunset from 360 enjoying a glass of Turkish wine, head to the historical Pera Palace Hotel (where Agatha Christie stayed) for a drink at its classy bar, then mingle with the intellectual Turkish crowd in the cafes and bars around Asmalimescit Street.
The superlative Dolmabahçe Palace is a must see. Chora Museum is also a special attraction, mainly if you are catholic and devoted to the Virgin Mary. The Bebek area is very charming and offers great seafood.
If you have time, it is worth taking a boat tour at the Bosphorus (some include lunch). Ask the concierge at your hotel, as it is just more convenient to close the deal with the company your hotel partners with. Still, remember that the best Bosphorus views are found in some of the restaurants and bars listed below.
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| Hagia Sophia |
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| Basilica Cistern |
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| New Mosque |
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| Grand Bazaar |
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| Blue Mosque |
Close to the old centre, visit the Galata Tower (great views to the Golden Horn and the old centre) and walk around Beyoglu. You may watch the sunset from 360 enjoying a glass of Turkish wine, head to the historical Pera Palace Hotel (where Agatha Christie stayed) for a drink at its classy bar, then mingle with the intellectual Turkish crowd in the cafes and bars around Asmalimescit Street.
The superlative Dolmabahçe Palace is a must see. Chora Museum is also a special attraction, mainly if you are catholic and devoted to the Virgin Mary. The Bebek area is very charming and offers great seafood.
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| Spice Bazaar |
If you have time, it is worth taking a boat tour at the Bosphorus (some include lunch). Ask the concierge at your hotel, as it is just more convenient to close the deal with the company your hotel partners with. Still, remember that the best Bosphorus views are found in some of the restaurants and bars listed below.
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| Galata Tower from the historical centre |
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| Dolmabahçe Palace |
Dining in Istanbul
Ok, let's focus on what the author likes: great food! And, by the way, Turkish food is simply delicious, so you should only have Turkish food once in Istanbul (and perhaps try cuisines and cultures of the countries around). You will miss it when you are back home.
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| Best hummus in town at Karakoy Lokantasi |
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| Excellent Anatolian wine choice at Karakoy Lokantasi |
- Karakoy Lokantasi. Really the best Turkish food in a charming, informal venue with attentive service. Try all types of hummus and kebabs. No views, but the food is really the best. Have some Turkish red Anatolian wine.
- Lokanta Maya. Also great Turkish food.
- Hamdi. Great meat + views.
- Munferit. Super cool place, great Turkish tapas, also a bar.
- Have lunch by the pool at the Ciragan Palace, not really for the food, but for the experience and unparalleled views of the Bosphorus. Visit the Palace. This hotel is one of the things that make Istanbul unique.
- Lucca. Cool place for Mediterranean food in Bebek.
- Borsa. A classic. More upscale.
- Arnavutkoy Balikcisi and Eftalya. Both are great seafood restos by the Bosphorus.
- Kantin. Possibly the best lunch place.
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| Lunching at the Ciragan Palace with great views to the Bosphorus |
Eating in Sultanahmet
It is not easy to find the right places once you are in the narrow streets of the old centre. Here is your passport to satisfaction: Sultanahmet Koftecisi, Aynen Durum and Burc, the latter inside the Grand Bazaar. All simple, typical and absolutely amazing. For an upscale experience, go to the Four Seasons next to Hagia Sophia.
For the records, Nisantasi, in truth, does not have anything special and is a little far away from everything that makes Istanbul extraordinary. You ain't be in Istanbul to be in an ordinary/chic place like that, but many people chose to stay there and won't regret. If you want to dine there, Delicatessen and Kantin are good options, and Tatbak is good for a quick bite. If you find it weird that we do not recommend Beymen Brasserie: check it out only if you are one of those travelers who want to pretend that you are in St. Tropez or the Meatpacking District wherever you go - even if you are in a city as unique as Istanbul.
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| Typical desserts at Sultanahmet Koftecisi |
For the records, Nisantasi, in truth, does not have anything special and is a little far away from everything that makes Istanbul extraordinary. You ain't be in Istanbul to be in an ordinary/chic place like that, but many people chose to stay there and won't regret. If you want to dine there, Delicatessen and Kantin are good options, and Tatbak is good for a quick bite. If you find it weird that we do not recommend Beymen Brasserie: check it out only if you are one of those travelers who want to pretend that you are in St. Tropez or the Meatpacking District wherever you go - even if you are in a city as unique as Istanbul.
Nightlife in Istanbul
Asmalimescit Street in Beyoglu and the charming lanes around it are packed with cafes and bars with a vibrant, artsy crowd. Babylon bar/club is a great place to experience where some interesting locals hang.
For the famous restaurants that turn into clubs, by the Bosphorus and with great views: don't feel guilty to experience some touristy stuff as well - and, of course, party with an international crowd. You will find many blogs talking about 360, Reina (good during the summer) and Ulus 29, so we will not focus on them. They are all worth checking out. Suada is also nice as it is on an island in the middle of the Bosphorus, with great views, and you have to get there by a 10 min. ferry (an experience itself).
We had a great experience at Ernemet Co. and recommend this place. It is behind the Blue Mosque, here. Negotiate!
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| Beyoglu area |
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| View from 360 in Beyoglu during sunset |
For the famous restaurants that turn into clubs, by the Bosphorus and with great views: don't feel guilty to experience some touristy stuff as well - and, of course, party with an international crowd. You will find many blogs talking about 360, Reina (good during the summer) and Ulus 29, so we will not focus on them. They are all worth checking out. Suada is also nice as it is on an island in the middle of the Bosphorus, with great views, and you have to get there by a 10 min. ferry (an experience itself).
Buying kilim
We had a great experience at Ernemet Co. and recommend this place. It is behind the Blue Mosque, here. Negotiate!
Hotels
Rixos Pera is a great option, very well located, in the most vibrant part of the city and walking distance to the historical centre. We stayed there and we definitely recommend it. Great breakfast, beautiful, spacious room, nice turkish bath. The restaurant on the top is also good, with great views. For more luxury, look for the Ciragan Palace (a must visit), Pera Palace Hotel, the Four Seasons at the Bosphorus and the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet.
We hope this helps you enjoy Istanbul as much as we did. We definitely want to go back!
We hope this helps you enjoy Istanbul as much as we did. We definitely want to go back!
