A guide to Istanbul - where to go, stay and, of course, EAT!

Welcome to Istanbul!

It is definitely one of the greatest capitals of the world. The mix of new and historical, European and Asian, Byzantine and Ottoman, luxury and decadent, makes it pretty unique. Yes, Istanbul is a urban chaos - like many other capitals. Still, if you do not like it, surely you were too busy to do proper research beforehand, as Istanbul is meant to be praised and loved. Maybe we can help you with that.

Ideally, you need 5 full days in Istanbul to get the most of what the city offers. As all posts in this blog, this suggested guide by no means is meant to be exhaustive or super informative. It is merely a starting / validating point for travellers who are seeking to have a special experience aligning touristic attractions with hidden gems - most of them suggested by a dear Turkish friend of mine (a true insider whose taste I deeply trust). Take notes!

Hagia Sophia seen from
the Ciragan Palace

Hagia Sophia in Sultanahmet

Sightseeing

In Sultanahmet (the gorgeous historical centre), you should visit Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern, the Topkapi Palace (including the harem), the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar (buy tea and Turkish Delights!), the Archaeological Museum and its beautiful gardens, the Suleymaniye Mosque and the New Mosque (one of the most beautiful mosques, still not considered a top attraction). You need at least two full days to see all that.

Hagia Sophia

Basilica Cistern

New Mosque

Grand Bazaar

Blue Mosque

Close to the old centre, visit the Galata Tower (great views to the Golden Horn and the old centre) and walk around Beyoglu. You may watch the sunset from 360 enjoying a glass of Turkish wine, head to the historical Pera Palace Hotel (where Agatha Christie stayed) for a drink at its classy bar, then mingle with the intellectual Turkish crowd in the cafes and bars around Asmalimescit Street.

The superlative Dolmabahçe Palace is a must see. Chora Museum is also a special attraction, mainly if you are catholic and devoted to the Virgin Mary. The Bebek area is very charming and offers great seafood.

Spice Bazaar

If you have time, it is worth taking a boat tour at the Bosphorus (some include lunch). Ask the concierge at your hotel, as it is just more convenient to close the deal with the company your hotel partners with. Still, remember that the best Bosphorus views are found in some of the restaurants and bars listed below.

Galata Tower from the historical centre

Dolmabahçe Palace

Dining in Istanbul

Ok, let's focus on what the author likes: great food! And, by the way, Turkish food is simply delicious, so you should only have Turkish food once in Istanbul (and perhaps try cuisines and cultures of the countries around). You will miss it when you are back home.

Best hummus in town
at Karakoy Lokantasi

Excellent Anatolian wine choice
at Karakoy Lokantasi

• Karakoy Lokantasi. Really the best Turkish food in a charming, informal venue with attentive service. Try all types of hummus and kebabs. No views, but the food is really the best. Have some Turkish red Anatolian wine. 
• Lokanta Maya. Also great Turkish food.
• Hamdi. Great meat + views.
• Munferit. Super cool place, great Turkish tapas, also a bar. 
• Have lunch by the pool at the Ciragan Palace, not really for the food, but for the experience and unparalleled views of the Bosphorus. Visit the Palace. This hotel is one of the things that make Istanbul unique. 
• Lucca. Cool place for Mediterranean food in Bebek. 
• Borsa. A classic. More upscale. 
• Arnavutkoy Balikcisi and Eftalya. Both are great seafood restos by the Bosphorus. 
• Kantin. Possibly the best lunch place.

Lunching at the Ciragan Palace
with great views to the Bosphorus

Eating in Sultanahmet

It is not easy to find the right places once you are in the narrow streets of the old centre. Here is your passport to satisfaction: Sultanahmet Koftecisi, Aynen Durum and Burc, the latter inside the Grand Bazaar. All simple, typical and absolutely amazing. For an upscale experience, go to the Four Seasons next to Hagia Sophia.

Typical desserts at
Sultanahmet Koftecisi

For the records, Nisantasi, in truth, does not have anything special and is a little far away from everything that makes Istanbul extraordinary. You ain't be in Istanbul to be in an ordinary/chic place like that, but many people chose to stay there and won't regret. If you want to dine there, Delicatessen and Kantin are good options, and Tatbak is good for a quick bite. If you find it weird that we do not recommend Beymen Brasserie: check it out only if you are one of those travelers who want to pretend that you are in St. Tropez or the Meatpacking District wherever you go - even if you are in a city as unique as Istanbul.

Nightlife in Istanbul

Asmalimescit Street in Beyoglu and the charming lanes around it are packed with cafes and bars with a vibrant, artsy crowd. Babylon bar/club is a great place to experience where some interesting locals hang. 

Beyoglu area

View from 360 in Beyoglu
during sunset

For the famous restaurants that turn into clubs, by the Bosphorus and with great views: don't feel guilty to experience some touristy stuff as well - and, of course, party with an international crowd. You will find many blogs talking about 360, Reina (good during the summer) and Ulus 29, so we will not focus on them. They are all worth checking out. Suada is also nice as it is on an island in the middle of the Bosphorus, with great views, and you have to get there by a 10 min. ferry (an experience itself).

Buying kilim

We had a great experience at Ernemet Co. and recommend this place. It is behind the Blue Mosque, here. Negotiate!

Hotels

Rixos Pera is a great option, very well located, in the most vibrant part of the city and walking distance to the historical centre. We stayed there and we definitely recommend it. Great breakfast, beautiful, spacious room, nice turkish bath. The restaurant on the top is also good, with great views. For more luxury, look for the Ciragan Palace (a must visit), Pera Palace Hotel, the Four Seasons at the Bosphorus and the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet.


We hope this helps you enjoy Istanbul as much as we did. We definitely want to go back!

Galeria Logo - São Paulo

Logo was born in 2011 to offer a unique selection of modern street, skate, urban and comics-inspired art with styles and prices that please both new and old investors (even those who do not read comics and don't know how to ride a skate).

Friendly owners Lucas Ribeiro (aka Pexão), Marcelo Secaf and Carmo Marchetti enjoy talking about how they discover artists across Brazil and the globe and what is the artists' history and identity to the gallery's work and proposal.

As described on their website, "It’s a vision that takes into consideration the artists’ production in its whole amplitude, beyond the circuit of galleries and museums, evidencing the relevance of their works to society".

Taiwanese Lin Yi Hsuan, for example, volunteered to work with needy children in Honduras, where and with whom he reinvented and inspired his work.
This is a great time to visit the gallery as the 3rd edition of Lista, the current exhibition (from Feb 4 to March 15), is a collective of all of the gallery's artists plus some special guests.

Painting by Lin Yi Hsuan

Painting by Fabrio Zimbres

Artists: Adriano Cinelli (Onio), Alberto Monteiro, Alex Hornest, América Sanchez, Andrés Brück, Bruno 9li, Carlos Dias, Carlos Issa, Doma, Emerson Pingarilho, Fabiano Rodrigues, Fabio Zimbres, Flavio Samelo, Felipe Yung (Flip), Gustavo Eandi, Jayelle Hudson, Lauro Roberto, Lin Yi-Hsuan, Luciana Araujo, Nicolás Sobrero, Patricia Furlong, Paul Loubet, Rimon Guimarães, Sesper, Talita Hoffmann, Titi Freak, Tomas Spicolli, Walter Nomura (Tinho) and Weaver Lima. Guests: Fernando Martins, Jorge Loureiro, KAI (Alemanha), Leonardo Stroka and Renato Custódio.

The great vibe and incredible space of the gallery make it worth the visit anytime of the year, but the current Lista indeed proves the consistency of the gallery, the dialogue between its talented, sensitive, genuine artists and the exquisite taste of the owners. Definitely a must go if you enjoy modern art.

Galeria Logo
Rua Artur de Azevedo, 401
Pinheiros, São Paulo
www.galerialogo.com/pt-BR (english)

Feed Food - São Paulo

Feed Food is an unmistakable, unique place to which we have been many times, and will always come back. There is no other place in São Paulo that combines this amazing food, service, ambiance and coolness within a beautiful green garden, specially when it is behind  Cartel 011, a store/complex with so many interesting options, from trendy tennis shoes to provocative modern art.

Gourmet coxinhas, crispy noodles with chicken (try this one in your first visit), vodka penne with pork, pumpkin and serra da canastra cheese risotto, green juice, tapioca flan, ovomaltine crispy bar with nuts ice cream. These are only a few of the excellent options you will find at this pleasant garden, and the big responsible for such a success is chef-owner Victor Vasconcellos. Also the chef of Bar Numero and co-owner of the renowned catering company Arroz de Festa, he is always there to welcome and accommodate guests, as well as supervise the friendly, attentive staff.

Beware of something: Feed Food is addictive.

Feed Food
Rua Artur de Azevedo, 517
Pinheiros, São Paulo
www.facebook.com/czofeedfood

Casa Europa - São Paulo

The traditional Casa Europa reopened at its very same address from 25 years ago, and it looks like it is finally back for good (and maybe better than ever). The rustic environment welcomes couples, friends and families altogether in two floors, a green balcony and a wide bar.

Restaurateur Ipe Moraes is behind the project, which explains why the ambiance, service and food are as outstanding as his other houses Taberna 474 and Adega Santiago. Congratulations to Chef Felipe Grecco, specially for the apple ravioli with gorgonzola and mushrooms (soft and divine), the ragu selections and the amazing doce de leite cannoli. The welcoming staff will guide you through interesting options of cost/benefit tuscan wines.

We know you missed your family lunches from 25 years ago. It is ok, now you can revive this great moments in a more rustic environment, and even take some of Casa Europa with you to your home as now it has market inside. Enjoy.

Casa Europa
Al. Gabriel Monteiro da Silva, 726 @ Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite
Jardins, São Paulo
http://www.casaeuropa.com.br/

Brew Dog - São Paulo

"Craft beer revolution". Rock and roll. Sharing tables. Gourmet draft beer. Beer degustation. House beers and guest beers. Local beer (why not?). Punk waiters passionate about beer. (Expensive, great) gourmet hot dogs. Organic juices. A nice history. Punks.

Scottish Brew Dog is beer for punks and for us all. Bars in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Camden, Shoreditch, Stockholm and now São Paulo, just in front of Instituto Tomie Ohtake. I want to visit many other times.

Brew Dog São Paulo
Rua dos Coropés, 41
Pinheiros, São Paulo
www.brewdog.com/bars/sao-paulo

Folie – São Paulo

Picturesque Folie is a neighborhood gem in Pinheiros. Besides being as cozy as your grandma’s old house, seriously  it has the best  macarons (both traditional and exotic flavors), an unbelievably creamy brigadeiro ice cream, a respectful frozen yogurt and some tasteful chocolate and cookies. A must go and must try. Sit back on the balcony,  pretend you are in the countryside, relax and delight yourself with some of the best sweets in town.

Folie

Rua Cristiano Viana, 295

Pinheiros, São Paulo

www.unefolie.com.br/

The NoMad - NYC

Daniel Humm: Eleven Madison Park's renowned chef presents you The NoMad, one of the coolest best new restaurants of New York City. A real must go if you want to keep on track with what NYC has to offer in its best and align critics picks with hot spots.

The dark, cozy restaurant is inside the stylish Nomad Hotel, located at the Flatiron District, or NoMad (for "North of Madison Square Park"). It is close to the Breslin and its famous lamb burger, which proves that this region, once tasteless, is becoming trendier and a reference to foodies.

Photo from Grubstreet

Featured on Platt's Where to Eat in 2014 and as one of NY Mag's ten new best restaurants of 2013, where else would you have been able to choose between tagliatelle or risotto with butter, parmesan and white truffles at cost: "reasonable" or "ridiculous". I gladly went for "ridiculous" and hope to get the next truffle season.

Service is impeccable. The brussels sprouts salad is great to share as a light starter. There is a fabulous whole-roasted chicken for two. Finally, to end in great style, try top dessert Milk & Honey, but be prepared to taste real fresh, strong, farm milk - and like it.

The NoMad
1170 Broadway & 28th Street

Manhattan, New York, NY

http://www.thenomadhotel.com/#/dining

Feirinha Gastronômica at Praça Benedito Calixto

An efficient way to prove as many Brazilian (and not so Brazilian) delicacies as possible is by visiting the Gastronomic Fair, or Feirinha Gastronômica, at Praça Benedito Calixto, taking place every Sunday afternoon.

Praça Benedito Calixto, famous for hosting a pleasant antiques / flea market on Saturdays, turns into a gastronomic pole on Sundays by bringing together many excellent chefs and food and beverage small businesses, working more as artisans.

You can find from hibiscus ice cream to an authentic acarajé, from blueberry macarons to gourmet hot dogs, from macaxeira to churros. But the trophy goes to the fresh sweets prepared by Chef Lucas Corazza, currently presenting, among others, an impeccable blue ribbon, Boston style, cheesecake.

Updated information can be found on the Feirinha's page on Facebook. Precious tips: (i) don't be impressed by the huge lines (they move fast), (ii) bring cash as most tents don't accept debit or credit cards and (iii) share the food, so that you are able to prove as much as possible. After that, you can walk around the Praça and the beautiful little shops surrounding the Pinheiros neighbourhood.

Feirinha Gastronômica
Praça Benedito Calixto, 85

Pinheiros São Paulo

http://feirinhagastronomica.com.br/

Tappo Tratoria

Tappo is in my opinion the best trattoria I have tried in town, and one could expect no less from the Italian house of Chef Benny Novak (among Ici Bistro, Ici Brasserie and 210 Diner), specially after Novak wisely decided to invite young and experienced Italian Chef Rodolfo de Santis to run the house.

Rodolfo is a formidable, complete chef. Instead of choosing anything from the menu (not that you would regret it), consider going for one of the day specials. If you are lucky enough to occupy one of the restaurant's 28 seats, trust him and de Santi will know how to delight and surprise you. 

The reduced size makes the bistro-style trattoria even cosier and more special. Reservations accepted.

Tappo Trattoria
Rua da Consolação, 2967
Jardins, São Paulo
www.tappo.com.br/

Trattoria Fasano

The new house of Grupo Fasano is defnitely worth the visit, but be prepared to spend US$ 80 on lunch - and that if you don't drink wine.

Yet, a Fasano meal is always worth it, specially in a little less pretentious environment facing the beautiful fountains of Pátio Malzoni, as well as the Bandeirante historic house below this grand business building.

Try the excellent Carbonara or the traditional Cacio Pepe, finalizing with the creamy Tiramisu - you can't go wrong with that.

Trattoria
Rua Iguatemi S/N (between Rua Joaquim Floriano and Av. Horácio Lafer, attached to Pátio Malzoni building)
Itaim, São Paulo
http://www.fasano.com.br/gastronomia/restaurante/38

Chez Burger

For those who were missing one of the best burgers in town, Chez Burger is back, and better than ever. Who needs an actual venue if you can sell on a street truck attached to Bar Secreto, who needs different types of burgers if the Secreto Burger is just perfect, and who needs to offer more than one dessert if your choice is brigadeiro de colher?

This is the recipe, take it or leave it. And you'd better take it, for your own pleasure - Wednesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 4am.

Chez Burger
Rua Gunha Gago, 620
Pinheiros, São Paulo
http://chezburger.com.br/

Arola Vintetres

The fact that Catalan starred chef Sergi Arola has a restaurant in São Paulo is a proof that the city is a gastronomy center to watch and experience. Arola selected the rooftop of the Tivoli Hotel in São Paulo, with breathtaking views of Avenida Paulista, to headquarter his culinary mecca around here.

Chef Fernando Coradazzi locally runs the house with mastery. An interesting way to experience as much delicacies and inventions as possible - including Arola's unmistakable patatas bravas - is ordering the Tapeo, which includes a fine selection of nine tapas and dessert. Seriously, the dessert we were offered - a cold Bolacha Maria mousse topped with citric ice cream - is one of the best and freshest desserts my wife and I have ever tasted. 

An attentive sommelier is there to pair your degustation of tapas in the best fashion, always with a smile on her face - even if you chose the most cost/benefit wines. Absolutely an excellent, complete restaurant to visit with friends, on business or for a special occasion with your beloved one.

Arola Vintetres
Alameda Santos, 1437
Jardins, São Paulo

http://www.arolavintetres.com.br/

Chez Oscar

Chez Oscar is a new restaurant very well located at Rua Oscar Freire, in the heart of Jardins. It belongs to Grupo Chez, which also owns Bar Secreto, Chez Burger and Chez MIS, known as hype places with good food and vibe.

Chez Oscar does not disappoint and actually impresses for a great, attentive service, as well as pleasant ambiance, impeccable decor and fresh, well prepared food. Dishes like the rustic gnocchi and the mushroom risotto, present in all restaurants of Grupo Chez, are consistently well executed, as well as salads and desserts.

On the left is the delicious frozen yogurt with nuts farofa and red fruits in front of the pleasant patio. Go after 7pm and you can also experience two bars.

Overall, a great experience. Definitely a place to visit many times.

Chez Oscar
Rua Oscar Freire, 1128
Jardins, São Paulo
http://chezoscar.com.br/